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Much of my free time in recent months has been spent on my second book - the fieldwork and research phase is largely done, and I’ve moved on to the more challenging writing phase, in which I try to craft and chisel something coherent out of the mountain of material I’ve gathered. 


Hence, this blog will be a lot quieter - but I’ll still try to post once in a while, and share a little about the book I’m working on. 


Yes, this book will be about Singapore history. 


Here’s an abstract from 1851 which I will be putting into my manuscript: 


While some Malays were collecting rattans and cutting wood in a piece of jungle near Mr. Dunman’s plantation at Serangoon, they were alarmed by hearing a tiger making his approach through the underwood. They immediately commenced a retreat, but had not cleared the jungle when the tiger came up with them and singling out the fattest man in the party sprang upon him. It had dragged the body some distance ere the man’s companions recovered from the fright into which they had been thrown, and pursued him with their parangs, on which the tiger dropped the body and retreated. The poor man was found in the agonies of death with his throat and face severely lacerated. The body was brought away, but the tiger, it would appear, was determined to have his meal, for the same night he carried off a Chinaman at a short distance from the scene of his morning’s exploit. The Chinaman’s friends on making a search found the body, with one of the legs wanting… The same animal killed another man in the next week.


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(This wood engraving is of another tiger encounter in 1835, experienced by Superintendent of Public Works and Convicts George Drumgoole Coleman and his group of convict labourers, but it was so well-drawn I had to put it here.)

 

On the evening of Friday 12 May, as part of this year’s Singapore HeritageFest, I gave a talk on 200 years of Singapore transport and urban history.

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Like previous talks, it drew on material from my book Jalan Singapura: 700 Years of Movement in Singapore. This time, however, I included findings from ongoing research for my next book.


I also introduced audience engagement, inviting them to answer two questions on their mobile phones:


1. What is one enduring memory you have of Singapore land transport, which no longer exists?


Some answers:


- Riding Bendy Buses in eastern Singapore

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The Bendy Bus used to run in Tampines as part of Bus Service 67. Credit: Shankar S.

- The “ding dong” speed limit warning in the old Crown / Cedric taxis


- The train from Tanjong Pagar to Woodlands and beyond

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Photo credit: EquatorialSky2.

- The first railway track! In one of the walking tours, I was brought to this underpass near the pinnacle hdb, I was told this was part of the first railway track. That was what led me to do my own reading up on it, and Eisen’s book shed useful insight in this area


- The old non-air-conditioned SBS buses with the sliding windows. If you didn’t close them on time or couldn’t close them when it rained, the rain will fall and collect on the tracks of the sliding windows and dribble onto the seat and onto the floor which I remember was the industrial aluminium flooring with the anti-slip pattern


2. What is your biggest wish for Singapore transport / urban development?


Some answers:


- Can eat (on public transport)


- To not further disrupt the nature for more roads and mrt networks


- 24 hour public transport


- magnetic levitation


- Bike path connecting each district


- More diverse rail transit modes like bringing back trams, use of monorails beyond Sentosa, etc…


- A wider variety of bus models please


- Abolishment of “Jaywalking” for more pedestrian friendly streets


- ...I would love to see a museum of transport in Singapore with life size vintage vehicles

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I wish Tanjong Pagar Railway Station was converted into Singapore's very own museum of transport. Credit: Alicereneztay.

Hear, hear!

 

Urban renewal is taking place in Shenton Way and Tanjong Pagar, so I headed to the city to check out the buildings being torn down or constructed. 


The iconic AXA Tower at 8 Shenton Way was completed in 1986, which makes it younger than me (!), but has been doomed to redevelopment.


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At the junction of Shenton Way and Prince Edward Road.


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Looking up at the junction of Shenton Way and Straits Boulevard.


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The 52-storey skyscraper once housed the offices of the Ministry of Finance as The Treasury. 


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It will make way for Skywaters Residences, a private residential complex which will become Singapore’s tallest building, at 63 storeys and 1,000 feet in height, when it is completed in 2028.


Tanjong Pagar is a short walk away from Shenton Way. In the area between Cantonment Road in the west and Anson Road in the east, there are no fewer than five construction sites. The air hangs heavy with clouds of dust and the cacophony of drilling and pounding. My heart goes out to the residents of nearby Tanjong Pagar Plaza, who will have to endure this for years, with little to no benefit to them.


Below is a map of the five construction sites, coloured blue.


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Base map credit: Singapore Land Authority.

1. Keppel Towers at 10 Hoe Chiang Road, a 27-storey building launched in 1991, and Keppel Towers 2 at 240 Tanjong Pagar Road, formerly known as GE Tower, a 13-storey building completed in 1993, have been torn down for Keppel South Central, a 33-storey, energy-efficient commercial tower with a community plaza. Keppel South Central should be ready late next year.


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A Straits Times report on the launch of Keppel Towers in August 1991. Credit: SPH Media Trust.

2. Tower Fifteen at 15 Hoe Chiang Road, formerly known as Euro-Asia Centre, at 29 storeys, has been demolished. Fragrance Group had applied to the Urban Redevelopment Authority (URA) for change of use for the site to full hotel usage, so a new hotel should rise on the spot. 


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Tower Fifteen, sometime before 2003. Credit: Robert J Steiner.

3. Up to the 1980s, Bernam Street was nearly perpendicular to Anson Road. Between 1984 and 1986, it was realigned to run straight onto Lim Teck Kim Road. The realignment created an open field which laid fallow for more than three decades until recently, when work started on One Bernam, named after its address, 1 Bernam Street, a 34-storey luxury condominium tower to be completed by 2026.


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Bernam Street in the 1984 street directory.
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A realigned Bernam Street in the 1988 street directory.

4. Realty Centre, an 11-storey building at 15 Enggor Street first advertised in The Straits Times in 1970, was sold in 2019, and demolished after 2021. Its buyer The Place Holdings has obtained provisional permission from URA for a 37-storey mixed-use complex with a two-storey commercial podium and a 33-storey residential tower.


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Realty Centre in July 2021.

5. Fuji Xerox Towers at 80 Anson Road, formerly known as IBM Towers, a 38-storey tower completed in 1987, is being demolished for Newport Plaza, a 47-storey mixed-use complex to be ready by 2027.


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A Straits Times advertisement for IBM Towers as it neared completion in June 1986. Credit: SPH Media Trust.

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Fuji Xerox Towers in July 2021.

The best view of the Tanjong Pagar construction sites is from the top floor of Block 1 Tanjong Pagar Plaza, as the common corridors open up to the south.


This is the southwest view of the sites for Keppel South Central and 15 Hoe Chiang Road.


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This is the southeast view of the sites for One Bernam and 15 Enggor Street, and towering above them, Fuji Xerox Towers being torn down. The foreground will gradually rise while the background will slowly disappear.


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I will be back in a year’s time.

 

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